Project update - February 2007

AKNP Story: A wilderness that enchanted hunters to become conservationists
by Aung Than

One cold season I was on a hunting expedition across the Yaw wilderness area, in the Pondaung-Ponnya hill ranges on the western catchments of the lower Chindwin River. I traveled east from Gangaw, a major Yaw town, across two old reserved forests. The Yaw area is famous for the significant anthropological discoveries of fossils of the primate, the Homo erectus and also for its distinctive people who are one of the earliest Myanmar settlers. The Yaws are well known for their exceptional cultural and traditional entities, honesty and hospitality.

One afternoon, the Yaw hunters shot a gaur and when we returned to the spot next day, we found to our great dismay and elation, that we had been robbed of the carcass by a family of tigers. As we traveled, I found out the area was a diverse habitat with a mix of different forest types changing from the moist riverine evergreen, mixed deciduous and climax Dipterocarp forests to tropical pine forests on the hill tops, not mentioning the micro types. Apparently, the place is situated astride an area of mixed ecotones rich in both floral and faunal diversity.

During our exploration we had to avoid elephant herds foraging on bamboo brakes, and a nursing Malaysian sun bear. Herds of gaurs and bantengs were common. We once had to wait quite a while to let pass a long column of fast breeding wild boars. Horn-bills indicated the richness of birdlife. Pheasants inhabited the upper stream flats. Signs and sounds of leopard and civets were ample. Wild dogs were common, preying in groups upon sambhur deer. The most common and noticeable animals were barking deer and wild fowl. In fact, the area is a magnificent wilderness haven for many life forms.

Such was my first impression of the Alaungdaw Kathapa area. It remained so deeply impressed in my mind and heart that I have had to propose to the Chief Technical Advisor of the Nature Conservation and National Parks Project sponsored by UNDP/FAO to establish it as a national park. It was agreed unanimously. After constituting the 1606 sq. km Alaungdaw Kathapa National Park (AKNP) in 1984, the very first in Myanmar, we employed many local hunters, many Yaws, from nearby villages as Park Rangers. With their local knowledge of the area and love of wildlife, they become excellent and dedicated Park Rangers.

Impressive presence of tigers in the Park was observed every now and then. The monks residing at the isolated Shrine area during the monsoon waning days related the stories of the communicating sounds of tigers, foraging elephants and browsing deer around the Shrine. One early morning, an old hermit was unable to fetch water because a tiger was serenely resting at the door step. In 1992, a student group from the University of Forestry on a field trip had to call for help when the spine chilling tiger calls were heard around the camp for a few consecutive nights. More often than not, a frightened deer would take refuge inside the Shrine area when chased by wild dogs.

In an unexpected move, the greatest of support came from the highest authority of the State, the Senior Gen. Than Shwe. I have had the pleasure of hosting him personally at the Alaungdaw Kathapa shrine in one cold month of 1993. He was very impressed when I explained to him what a national park is and the issue of effective conservation of wildlife in AKNP. He promptly gave the mandate to protect the forest and the wild animals without fail and ordered the arming of the Rangers. With such exalted blessing and the surging morale of the Park Rangers, poachers were kept at bay for some time.

However, patrolling the Park was one of the most challenging tasks for the Rangers due to rugged terrain and poor facilities. Poverty is the main scourge that renders the Rangers less efficient in the discharge of their duties. No park ranger is an island. With time, malnutrition, hazardous work-conditions and low morale join forces against proper park management. The villagers are equally restless with poverty, resorting to illegal activities inside the Park for their subsistence livelihood. Poaching and poisoning of streams continue. Elephants and tigers are the most vulnerable victims. These animals, having large ranges and territories, usually move to safer corners in case of danger and disturbances, and usually move back into the heart of the isolated Park particularly during the monsoon. AKNP is buffered by a strip of surrounding reserved forests and connected by corridors across the upper Chindwin catchments and to the adjacent forested border with India. Villagers' encounters with tigers and elephants are quite common in these areas.

Thankfully, the collaborations of David Shepherd Wildlife Foundation with its 'Surviving Together Programme (STP)' and Smithsonian Institution's 'Elephant Ecology Study' have facilitated wildlife protection and monitoring to a certain degree. With the long-term aim of sustainable ecosystem development, the STP provided the Park Rangers and local people from 60 villages with their most needed financial, technical, material and moral support since 1997. With the increase of public out-reach and participatory activities, Park management and wildlife conservation have never been more successful. However, sustainable inputs with sufficient funding are crucial needs for sustainable park development. The AKNP, without question, is a wilderness and wildlife refuge significant for its anthropological, ecological, historical, religious, cultural and traditional heritages. It warrants serious consideration to be designated as World Heritage Site.

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